A scrumptious story of life in Paris

Posted on August 6, 2014 by katemahar

It’s time for another book suggestion and this one is a must for any Francophiles out there.

Lunch in Paris, A Love Story with Recipes by Elizabeth Bard is as delightful as the illustration on the cover (below).  I found it while browsing through the library shelves last week and couldn’t resist picking it up. I have not been disappointed.

Must read for Francophiles!

Must read for Francophiles!

As if it weren’t enough to sigh over Elizabeth falling in love with the handsome Gwendal and moving to Paris to be with him and, well, to LIVE IN PARIS . . . each chapter ends with recipes that sound so appealing, I know I’m going to have to buy my own copy of this book to try out a few myself. The question will be whether to shelve it in the bookcase in my living room, or with the cook books on the baker’s rack in my kitchen.

These recipes sound so good . . .

How about mini almond cakes with a raspberry button, or melt-in-your-mouth braised beef with red wine, garlic and thyme? Rice pudding that you lovingly stir on the stove top like risotto (no oven in Gwendal’s tiny bachelor flat)? Or a fresh and fragrant fennel salad dressed with lemon, olive oil and pomegranate seeds?

(I wonder what the equivalent for YUM is in French?)

And did I mention that she now gets to LIVE IN PARIS?

It’s not all crispy croissants and Beaujolais Nouveau, however. In between trips to the markets and museums, Elizabeth shares some of the challenges of living abroad. For example, she illustrates how the French are not very, oh, flexible, shall we say? When her visiting mother found a rectangular spring-form pan that she planned to use to make cheesecake, the shop owner told her it was meant to be used making pate. And only pate. Period.  Multi-purpose or inventive uses for a particular item are apparently frowned upon by the French, or certainly by the shop owner in this instance.

And while France reportedly has one of the best health care systems in the world, when her new father in law became ill, Elizabeth learned that many French doctors are accustomed to being treated like gods – beyond reproach or question. Patients and their families are afraid to question a diagnosis or even to request explanations of treatment plans or prognoses.

The moral, of course, is that the grass may seem greener, but even the most romantic and beautiful of places on earth will never be perfect in all respects. Not that I meant to introduce a moral into this story, because after all, she gets to LIVE IN PARIS.

Whatever your opinion of Paris, France and “les citoyens” who live there, Elizabeth Bard’s entertaining story and mouth-watering recipes will surely satisfy both the stomach and the soul. C’est ravissant – et bon appetit!

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Make time to watch the feathers fly

Posted on July 30, 2014 by katemahar

My friends and family would tell you I’m not a very spontaneous person. As much as I hate to admit that, they’re right. But today’s blog post is here to encourage you (and me!) to be a little more adventurous, at least while traveling.

Serendipity can make for great memories.

One experience that comes to mind took place in Amsterdam a few years ago. As my cousin Carole and I came upon Dam Square, the historical center of the city, we decided to take a break for coffee at one of the outdoor cafes ringing the square. As we were getting ready to leave, we noticed young people milling about in the center of the square in ever larger numbers. Others stood on the fringe with cameras, laughing and apparently waiting for something interesting to happen.

Pillow fight in Amsterdam's Dam Square

Pillow fight in Amsterdam’s Dam Square

We were drawn to join them out of curiosity and just as the clock struck the hour, a huge pillow fight broke out before our eyes! It was a flash mob pillow fight which, at the time, I thought was some unique occurrence, singular to this fabulous city (which I’d already fallen in love with). We didn’t have pillows, of course, but we joined in with the delighted spectators, laughing and trying to capture the moment on film.

As it turns out, flash mob pillow fights have been taking place across the globe for a while. But on that day in Amsterdam, it was new to me and a wonderful, silly surprise as we casually explored the city.

On International Pillow Fight Day in March 2008, the Wall Street Journal estimated more than 5,000 people participated in New York City alone. Word spread through social media and the feathers flew in more than 25 cities, from Sydney to Stockholm.

(If you’re going to be in California in September, you might want to attend the World Pillow Fighting Championship in Rohnert Park at Sonoma Mountain Village. This is no flash mob. People will pay to compete or to be a spectator, but pillow fighting continues to pop up in the U.S. from Washington, DC to San Francisco.)

Street musician in picturesque Galway, Ireland

Street musician in picturesque Galway, Ireland

The point is not about searching for flash mob pillow fights, of course. It’s about wandering around and being a part of a city’s scene. It’s stopping to sway to the echoing tune of a talented musician in the tunnel of a Paris Metro stop, or watching a beautiful bride and groom pose for photos with Rome’s Coliseum in the background on a sunny October afternoon.

While staying in an apartment in Florence, we woke up Sunday morning to see that a flea and antiques market had magically sprung up overnight in the square and streets just opposite our building. I learned later that the market is open just one Sunday a month and we’d been lucky enough to catch it on this trip.

I found a dainty, old porcelain napkin holder that now displays my bookmark collection. And the colorful cover of a 1950s Italian magazine was perfect for framing and now hangs prominently in my kitchen. Best souvenirs ever!

Flea market and antiques on Sunday morning in Florence

Flea market and antiques on Sunday morning in Florence

IMG_0309So when we travel, yes . . . of course we want to climb the Eiffel Tower, or to stare up in awe at the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. But you know what? They’re not going anywhere. See the sites you’ve been waiting a lifetime to experience, but also, take your time. Look around.

You might be tickled by some flying feathers, too.

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Taste of “tango” and scary food in Yorkshire

Posted on July 23, 2014 by katemahar

I think it’s fun when I travel to a new place and find a connection I wasn’t expecting. That happened to me last fall when I visited Yorkshire. As I looked at a map to determine the route from York to the Farfield Mill Art & Heritage Centre in Sedbergh, I noticed that the drive could take me right through a town called Skipton.

High Street in Skipton, Yorkshire

High Street in Skipton, Yorkshire

Skipton?! Where had I heard of Skipton?

I wracked my brain, finally remembering that a pub in Skipton is where Alan and Celia met for the first time after connecting online, not having seen each other since they were teenagers. Both widowed and now in their 70s, they chose Skipton as a halfway point to meet, since Alan lived in Halifax and Celia in Harrogate.

Alan and Celia reconnect on the delightful BBC series, "Last Tango in Halifax"

Alan and Celia reconnect on the delightful BBC series, “Last Tango in Halifax”

I think that meeting in Skipton took place on the first show of the first season of the delightful BBC series, “Last Tango in Halifax.” I won’t go into the details of the show itself, but basically it’s the story of high school sweethearts falling in love all over again – but with all the added complications you’d expect with grown children, grandchildren, health and money issues, and so on. You can visit the PBS site for more information or read a great review of the show on the blog Seniors for Living.

As you may have guessed, I love this show. I’m also a huge fan of “Downton Abbey” and “Doc Martin” and most of the other great English series that appear on my PBS channel, Cleveland’s WVIZ.

I embarrassed myself more than once on that trip by exclaiming enthusiastically to local Yorkshiremen and women, “Don’t you LOVE ‘Last Tango in Halifax?!!’ “ The story is set in the towns and countryside right where they LIVE, so it seems to me that most folks would at least know of its existence, right?

Last what . . . ?

Last what . . . ?

I mean, if they decided to film a series called “Last Tango in Ashtabula,” I’m pretty sure everyone would know about it around here and be pretty excited, too. Maybe since England is geographically so small, the BBC is out and about filming things all the time and the people are just used to it. I do know that “Brideshead Revisited” and “All Creatures Great and Small” also were filmed in the area.

So no, the people I accosted in York, Sedbergh and Skipton hadn’t heard of the show. While perfectly pleasant, they looked at me in bewilderment, apologizing for not knowing anything about this television show the Yank was all excited about.

But anyway, my buddy Bernadette and I stopped in Skipton for lunch on the way to Sedbergh. We sat at a table by the fire in a pub that was reminiscent of the one where Celia and Alan first became reacquainted. Though the couple just had tea or wine or something (it was evening and rainy and gloomy), they could just as easily have stayed for dinner and ordered pub food much like my lunch.

Yummy fish and chips with . . . MUSHY PEAS!

Yummy fish and chips with . . . MUSHY PEAS!

I was looking forward to my first-ever, quintessentially English pub lunch of fish and chips. Imagine my astonishment when the meal was served with a nasty surprise: a side order of mushy peas. That’s right. MUSHY PEAS. That’s the green blob on the plate.

Apparently mushy peas are commonly served with fish and chips in England, although I can’t for the life of me imagine who would want to eat them. They are exactly what they claim to be:  green peas mashed up into a vile green paste. I’m not sure they’re even seasoned. Why would anyone think it’s a good idea to take perfectly edible, innocent little peas and smash them to glue-like consistency to serve with nice crispy fried fish and French fries? Did someone think, hmm, let’s balance the crispy delicious fish and potatoes with something of a different and frighteningly disgusting consistency?

Man. I just don’t get that at all. I’ve never understood how Australians could think serving baked beans on toast was an acceptable option for a light meal on a Sunday evening, either, but I digress.

And how did I get to talking about food?

Anyway, despite the mushy peas, I got a happy little kick out of eating lunch in Skipton. Believe me when I tell you, that’s the whole story. I didn’t meet Alan or Celia. Didn’t run into Gillian or Caroline or Kate. In fact, I’m not sure the cast ever had reason to return to Skipton in subsequent episodes. All I saw was the high street and road leading into town, so I can’t say I actually toured Skipton or anything like that. Having read more about it (see link above), I’m sorry I didn’t explore the market town beyond the borders of the pub.

As it happens, it doesn’t take much to tickle my fancy. That may be why I have had no qualms about writing a blog, never worrying about what on earth I’d talk about from one week to the next.

I had fish and chips and mushy peas in a pub in Skipton and it was a great day in Yorkshire. Yay! Now I can only hope you may be as easily amused by my stories . . . .

Thanks for stopping by!

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Witness history

Posted on July 17, 2014 by katemahar

In the latest issue of my favorite travel magazine, National Geographic Traveler, there is a short article about a bimillenary celebration this summer in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. “Bimillenary” means it’s been 2,000 years since Caesar Augustus laid one of the first stones to establish the settlement as a Roman outpost. Two thousand years!

The highlight of the celebration will be a festival August 22-24 featuring military and civic reenactments. There will be tours of the old town and guides dressed as Roman soldiers (I hope they’re not as cheesy as the guys outside the Coliseum in Rome). Regardless, you can be the sure the cobblestone streets of Ljubjana’s ancient city center will be rocking next month.

While there’s no way I can get to Slovenia for the upcoming festivities, I have to tell you that I’m starting to hear a siren song from that part of the world. A couple weeks ago I wrote about my “Wine Crawl for Wussies” and talked a little about the wonderful Slovenian immigrants who moved to this area years ago and cultivated vineyards in Northeastern Ohio.

What I didn’t mention is that in the years growing up with these friends, I always wondered where the heck Slovenia WAS. For the second half of the 20th century, Slovenia was a precious homeland that had disappeared. You couldn’t find it on any map because it had been swallowed up under the umbrella of Yugoslavia, a makeshift country created by Russia to include Slovenia, Slovakia, Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia, Macedonia, and more little countries and principalities I’m afraid I’ll inadvertently leave out in my ignorance.

I hope the maps below will help show you what this area looked like after World War II, then how it looks today. If you have a hard time finding Slovenia on the second map, it’s the little blue country sandwiched by Italy, Austria and Croatia.

Map of Europe after World War II

Map of Europe after World War II

slovenia map 2 current

Current map of Eastern Europe

Vineyards near Maribor, photo from hiking-biking.net

Vineyards near Maribor – beautiful photo from hiking-biking.net

As I started reading up on Slovenia, I learned that the primary wine-growing region is around the country’s second largest city, Maribor, located in the northeastern section of the country. I’m guessing that at least some of the families I knew must have come from that area. Every year at my home town’s “Grape Jamboree,” some of our friends would dress in traditional costume and dance, looking much like the people in the photo below.

Just like the dancers at Geneva's Grape Jamboree!

Just like the dancers at Geneva’s Grape Jamboree!

As a kid, all that I registered was the surface quaintness of the costumes and dancing, It was great fun to yell out to Char and Greg, our buddies wearing crazy hats and knickers as they danced on a float in the Jamboree parade.

Then years later, when my son Chris was a toddler, we stopped for lunch in a town outside Toronto on our way home from a vacation in Canada. There was an ethnic festival going on with people dressed in costumes and wearing sashes naming countries I’d barely ever heard of, like Estonia and Latvia, Moldova, Bulgaria. There were signs urging people to “never forget” their roots, their homelands. There was happy music and great food, but for the first time, I also realized the poignancy of their situation.

As you read my post, I wonder, do you have ancestors who came from countries that experienced things like this? One story in my family claims that when my Moravian paternal great-grandfather arrived in Cleveland, he slightly changed the spelling of his last name so he could pass as Bohemian to get a much-needed job. Moravia. Bohemia. Apparently the two weren’t always fond of each other. But now? Just part of Czechoslovakia. All gobbled up.

It makes me happy that my old friends can now point to a place on the map and say, “There. Right THERE is Slovenia, where my great grandparents lived.” Maybe someday I’ll return to Czechoslovakia and search for our Moravian roots.

But what I’m starting to imagine now is a trip that begins in Trieste (a city in Italy that spent many years as part of Austria), then meandering over to Slovenia and Croatia. I saw a little of Croatia on a river cruise on the Danube a few years ago, and now I’d like to see this beautiful country’s Adriatic coastline. (Any takers?)

The Italian port city of Trieste, photo from tangoitalia

The Italian port city of Trieste, photo from tangoitalia

When we’re fortunate enough to travel to, well, ANYWHERE – I think it’s exciting to stop and realize that we are witnessing history. Imagine the Roman legions marching through the settlement of Ljubljana two millennium ago. Think about countries that disappear, then are reborn. Think about how every place you visit has been called other names, claimed different borders.

Rulers change. Language changes. I saw a Norman castle in Sicily. Roman baths in Germany. Traces of Vikings in York. And mysterious Indian mounds in Southeastern Ohio.

Travel for vacation. Heaven knows we all need time to relax and regroup! But it’s fascinating and often very moving to learn about the history of your destination, too.

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Eight reasons why I want to visit Brisbane

Posted on July 10, 2014 by katemahar

I just finished a delightful four weeks with my son, Chris. He is currently working on his PhD at Queensland University of Technology in Brisbane, Australia, and was here on break between semesters. It was hard driving him to the airport yesterday, knowing it will be another year before he comes back home.

It got me thinking about all the reasons why I’d like to visit Brisbane, beginning with:

1. Is because Chris lives there.

And the City Botanic Gardens is Brisbane’s oldest park, originally planted by convicts in 1825 with food crops to feed the prison colony. The garden includes ancient trees, rainforest glades and exotic species, and runs the full length of Alice St, bordered by Parliament House on one side and the Brisbane River's northern banks on the other.

And to see the City Botanic Gardens, Brisbane’s oldest park, originally planted by convicts in 1825 with food crops to feed the prison colony. The garden includes ancient trees, rainforest glades and exotic species, and runs the full length of Alice St, bordered by Parliament House on one side and the Brisbane River’s northern banks on the other.

2. Is because Chris lives there.

And to stroll down Adelaide Street to check out the stylish stores and popular eateries. It’s one of the city’s hot spots for lovers of fashion and food.

And to stroll down Adelaide Street to check out the stylish stores and popular eateries. It’s one of the city’s hot spots for lovers of fashion and food.

3. Is because Chris lives there.

And to take a lunch or dinner cruise on one of the Kookaburra River Queens, authentic timber paddle wheelers that meander along the Brisbane River.

And to take a lunch or dinner cruise on one of the Kookaburra River Queens, authentic timber paddle wheelers that meander along the Brisbane River.

4. Is because Chris lives there.

And to visit the famous Australia Zoo located on Queensland's beautiful Sunshine Coast just 45 minutes north of Brisbane on Steve Irwin Way. It is the home of some of Australia's most unique and amazing wildlife, as well as some remarkable animals from overseas. You can even hug a koala.

And to visit the famous Australia Zoo located on Queensland’s beautiful Sunshine Coast just 45 minutes north of Brisbane on Steve Irwin Way. It is the home of some of Australia’s most unique and amazing wildlife, as well as some remarkable animals from overseas. You can even hug a koala.

5. Is because Chris lives there.

And to go to the Eagle Street Pier, which is home to some of Brisbane’s finest restaurants and offers unrivalled views of the Brisbane River.

And to go to the Eagle Street Pier, which is home to some of Brisbane’s finest restaurants and offers unrivalled views of the Brisbane River.

6. Is because Chris lives there.

And go to Glass House Mountains National Park - a heritage-listed national park 70 km north of Brisbane. The flat plain is dotted with hills that are the cores of extinct volcanoes that formed about 26 million years ago.

And go to Glass House Mountains National Park – a heritage-listed national park 70 km north of Brisbane. The flat plain is dotted with hills that are the cores of extinct volcanoes that formed about 26 million years ago.

7. Is because Chris lives there.

And to see Streets Beach, which is Australia’s only inner-city, man-made beach featuring a sparkling lagoon surrounded by white, sandy beaches and sub-tropical plants. Streets Beach is free to the public and is patrolled by qualified lifeguards all year round.

And to see Streets Beach, which is Australia’s only inner-city, man-made beach featuring a sparkling lagoon surrounded by white, sandy beaches and sub-tropical plants. Streets Beach is free to the public and is patrolled by qualified lifeguards all year round.

8. Is because Chris lives there.

And to visit the ANZAC Square War Memorial and Parkland, dedicated to Australia's military heritage, featuring the Shrine of Remembrance with Eternal Flame. Also included are war memorials, honor rolls, unit plaques, mosaic and soils from WWII cemeteries.

And to visit the ANZAC Square War Memorial and Parkland, dedicated to Australia’s military heritage, featuring the Shrine of Remembrance with Eternal Flame. Also included are war memorials, honor rolls, unit plaques, mosaic and soils from WWII cemeteries.

Many thanks to Brisbane’s tourist information site, Australia tourist information, the Australia Zoo website, and the Queensland Government site about its state parks, for the beautiful photos.

My boy and me

My boy and me

Here’s one more photo of the most cherished sight in Brisbane: my son Chris. We went to a picnic at the home  of Brian and Kate Schultz in Chagrin Falls this past Saturday. I got to spend a picture-perfect afternoon with Chris and some of his old friends and their families. Loved seeing the boys’ little ones and meeting their pretty wives.

Safe travels, dear Chris. Love you.

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Top Five Reasons why it’s great to be an OLD traveler

Posted on July 2, 2014 by katemahar

How often does someone tell you, hey – it’s good to be old?! Well, I’m here to tell you that when it comes to travel, at least, this is definitely true. Here are my top five reasons why you should celebrate and appreciate traveling in your so-called Golden Years.

You can finally hang up the mouse ears which, I might add, are a questionable fashion accessory on anyone over the age of nine.

You can finally hang up the mouse ears which, I might add, are a questionable fashion accessory on anyone over the age of nine.

1.  SAVE MONEY:  Your kids are grown up and out of the house. That means you no longer need to book your trips around the school year. Not surprisingly, school holidays coincide with peak seasons for most vacation destinations. Save money by traveling in the “shoulder seasons” when the rates are generally lower for both hotel and airline reservations.

No more sweating your way through Epcot in July and paying top dollar for the privilege. Even better (for many)? No more sweating your way through Epcot – ever. Unless, of course, you prefer that to going to the theater in London or sipping a café au lait in Montmartre . . . .

2.  AVOID THE CROWDS:  Empty nesters can finally choose NOT to travel shoulder-to-shoulder with a gazillion other people during school vacations. That means you’ll only stand in line for an hour in October to go up the elevator of the Eiffel Tower instead of three or four hours in July. (That’s only a slight exaggeration, by the way)

Paris in October is fabulous!

Paris in October is fabulous (and there I am enjoying every minute of it)!

Go ahead and love Paris in the springtime. Or the fall. Or the first week of December (do some early Christmas shopping). However, it also is a good idea to find out, if possible, when European school holidays take place if that’s where you’re heading.

My Costa Mediterranean cruise happened to coincide with school holidays in Western Europe one October and there were far more ankle biters whining for gelato and tattooed teens doing cannonballs into the ship’s pool than I would have liked. Whining in another language is not any cuter than whining in English, by the way.

 

 

3.  REQUEST WHEELCHAIR ASSISTANCE AT THE AIRPORT:  With no offense intended to those who have no choice but to use a wheelchair, I have to tell you – people in wheelchairs are treated like kings in airports. I found this out by accident when my cousin hurt her back and needed assistance on our way home from a trip to Italy. We were thrilled with the experience!

When you Google images for "person with crutches," this is one that shows up. Enjoy.

When you Google images for “person with crutches,” this is one that shows up. Enjoy.

Now, if you are upset that I am saying this, I can’t help you cultivate a sense of humor. That ball’s in your court. What I am saying is if you or a friend or spouse has achy arthritic knees or any other reason to even CONSIDER wishing you didn’t have to walk miles between gates in international airports, my advice is to BOOK A WHEELCHAIR.

A wheelchair is free and it’s wonderful. The pleasant assistant whips you from the gate to baggage claim and not only helps you grab the luggage, but then takes you to the front of the line for customs and passport control. You’ll also both get to zip through security with the First Class passengers, then breeze on to the next gate for your connecting flight. I’m not suggesting that able-bodied people feign injuries to get this great service, but I am saying that if you could use the help – GET IT. Don’t be a hero! What’s the point? But don’t forget to tip that wheelchair assistant VERY handsomely.

The duomo in Orvieto is one of the most spectacular churches in Italy - and one of my favorite towns.

The duomo in Orvieto is one of the most spectacular churches in Italy – and one of my favorite towns.

4.  YOU DON’T HAVE TO LOOK GOOD ALL THE TIME:  Not that I’m suggesting you let your personal hygiene go down the drain. No, I’m just glad to finally to say that I no longer stress about whether my hair has started frizzing or my tennis shoes look goofy. I recently traveled with a friend and her young (and gorgeous) daughter who met us each morning in full makeup and dressed like a model on a photo shoot. Everywhere we went, from the busy streets of Rome to the piazza in Orvieto, men’s heads swiveled to follow her progress across the cobblestones.

I’m not knocking that, but I am saying it’s a relief to be at a time of life when you’d rather wear comfortable shoes than worry about whether guys will think you’re hot. On the other hand, if you’re still out there looking for Mr. or Ms. Right, more power to you (and DO NOT travel with a good looking 20-something if you ever want anyone from the opposite sex to even casually glance in your direction).

Special tip:  If you insist on wearing your cutest sandals to stroll about the city, my advice is this: as soon as you get back to your hotel, grab a glass of wine, take a seat on the john, swivel to the side and soak your poor feet in the cold bidet. It’s such a comfort.

5.  TIME IS FINALLY ON YOUR SIDE:  When we are young adults, we’re building our careers, raising kids, maintaining a home, and so much more. There’s not enough time to travel much, and especially in our American culture where most people only get two or maybe three weeks’ vacation a year. Those precious days are probably spent taking the family to the beach in August, then maybe sharing the holidays with the folks in your hometown in December.

Cruising down the Danube, somewhere near Croatia

Cruising down the Danube, somewhere near Croatia

Those times with family make for such sweet memories (hopefully), but if we’re lucky, we may live long enough and stay healthy enough to explore more vacation choices when we’re older. Assuming you have any cash left after helping put the kids through school and religiously paying into your retirement accounts, maybe it’s finally time to take a cruise down the Danube or hike a mile or two along the Great Wall of China. If you didn’t have the time or the money at 40. Maybe now you do.

I hope so! And I wish very happy travels to everyone who’s ready for new adventures – no matter what your age.

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First Annual Wine Crawl for Wussies

Posted on June 25, 2014 by katemahar
vineyard

Summertime vines

When I was growing up in this little corner of Northeastern Ohio, I knew there were plenty of vineyards south of town. My classmates and buddies had last names like Kohli and Debevc and something about their Slovenian roots drew their parents and grandparents here to establish vineyards and farms. As kids, our friends grew up helping with grape harvests and pruning and other mysterious grape-focused labors.

In those days, the grapes were mostly sold to the huge Welch’s conglomerate. Pretty much the only wine-making was done privately for consumption by friends and family. While I don’t wish to offend, I have to say that the emphasis seemed to be on creating wine with the highest-possible alcohol content rather than attempting to cultivate any particular flavor. Forget finesse, notes of pear or pansies, or any of that other fancy-pants wine stuff you hear about now. If that wine had “legs,” those legs were wobbling and weaving and ready to go down for the count after one glass.

One of my younger sister’s best friends was a guy whose home-brew was affectionately labeled “Funderosa.” The plucky teens were not only welcome to sample the house wine, but were frequently drunk under the table by the boy’s mother. Good times.

Anyway, my sister Penny and her husband Dick are currently in town visiting the family (they live in the alcohol-challenged state of Utah, but do enjoy the year round golf in St. George). And since those vineyards we remember from childhood have not only greatly multiplied, but also have been transformed to become bona fide wine grapes, this past beautiful Sunday seemed like a great day to take them on a tour to just a few of the 25+ wineries that have sprouted up here over the years.

But wine for WUSSIES?

If you are a serious oenophile, this story is not for you. Besides, you can find articles galore about which wines are good, bad or mediocre all over the place. No, this is a story for people like Penny and me who kind of like wine, but have never gotten beyond appreciating anything much more complex than Boone’s Farm or Lambrusco. If you think a wine described as tasting like a grape Jolly Rancher is a good thing (try the Concord Ice Wine at South River Vineyards), this story is for YOU.

The dogs at Harpersfield Vineyard detect aromas of Mick & Rich on my pant leg.

The dogs at Harpersfield Vineyard detect aromas of Mick & Rich on my pant leg.

For instance, last Friday night I was Penny’s designated driver to meet some of her old girlfriends for dinner at Deer’s Leap Winery in Geneva. Penny liked the Deer’s Leap Berry Blast so much, she about killed a whole bottle. The taste is reminiscent of Cotton Club Raspberry soda, but with a little kick. I recommended it to her, since it’s one of my favorites and I’m only semi-embarrassed to admit it.

So I offered to be the DD again on Sunday to take my mother (only drinks Chardonnay – no oak, please), Penny (of the immature palate, like her sister) and Dick (strictly Budweiser and Bourbon for this dude) for what I hope will be the First Annual Wine Crawl for Wussies.

We could not begin to cover all the wineries listed in the Lake Erie Vines and Wines Trail brochure (that’s my ‘hood), but we gave it our best shot. We also added a quick detour to a bourbon distillery that recently popped up in the midst of the wineries dotting picturesque River Road. We relied on Dicks’ discerning palate to evaluate the boutique bourbon. Penny was crowned Wussie Wine Queen for a Day.

First stop, Harpersfield Vineyard. Though the closest thing to Wussie Wine was the Cuvee d’Alsace, it may have been a little too sophisticated to fit into the category. However – this was my favorite winery for ambiance. You almost have to know where you’re going to find this place because the sign is subtle (no neon out in these parts) and you can’t see the buildings from the main road, Route 307.

Harpersfield Vineyard is just so PRETTY!

Harpersfield Vineyard is just so PRETTY!

Flowers here, vines beyond

Flowers here, vines beyond

But it’s well worth keeping your eyes peeled for it; take the gravel road curving through the vines to reach this winery and its enchanting grounds. The old building is trimmed in purple and green and gussied up with a painter’s box of colorful flower beds. After you stop inside to choose your wine, step out into the back garden to sip and relax at picnic tables or little round tables with umbrellas. On a sunny day, it’s a little bit of heaven and it’s easy to imagine that there’s nothing for miles but trees and vines and flowers.

The winery also is popular with locals for the good bands that play outside on balmy evenings. In winter, enjoy wine and bread and cheese in front of the huge stone fireplace inside. I do wish they had more Wussie Wines, but I will return first for the atmosphere and second for the sweet and smooth Cuvee d’Alsace, which is a Kerner Riesling and Muscat Ottonell blend.

Penny at Ferrantes

Penny at Ferrante’s

From Harpersfield, the next stop down 307 (heading east) is Ferrante Winery. This very large and popular winery also has an excellent restaurant. Of the places we visited, it had the most reasonably priced and extensive tasting trays. We opted for the sampler of Specialty & Seasonal Wines and tried six different wines in tiny plastic cups.

This was Penny’s first time trying ice wine, which is exceptionally sweet – maybe even too sweet for me, which is saying a lot. If you’re not familiar with ice wine, the grapes are picked at night when they are frozen and are then distilled to become an almost syrupy, super-sweet wine. Around here, when the wineries are ready to harvest there are sometimes notices in the newspaper inviting people to come out on a winter’s night to help out and share the experience with the vintners. I think that might be fun, don’t you? Cold, though. Really, really COLD.

Anyway, at Ferrante’s we tried Raspberry Blanc (Penny: num num), Blueberry Blanc (ditto) and Cranberry Blanc (we decided they all tasted pretty much the same with a general consensus agreeing to num num).

Next was the Holiday Red, which was not so well-received. It was a little heavy and one of us thought we detected an essence of Santa’s boot. Celebration Spice wasn’t a favorite either. Penny thought it tasted like potpourri, but I could picture it served as mulled wine with a cinnamon stick.

The last was Penny’s introduction to ice wine and she happily described Ferrante’s version as “candy in a glass.”

Folks having lunch and enjoying the music at Ferrante's.

Folks having lunch and enjoying the music at Ferrante’s.

We sat in the quiet inner courtyard off Ferrante’s shop and wine sampling bar, but the photo here shows those who came to savor lunch and to enjoy the band on the restaurant’s terrace. There’s plenty of seating inside, too, and Ferrante’s is a great spot for Italian food and wine year ‘round.

From Ferrante’s we headed south on Route 534, then turned onto west River Road, which is home to maybe half a dozen more wineries between Geneva and Madison.

South River Winery

South River Vineyards

I’d always been curious about South River Vineyards, but had never visited until Sunday. It’s set back from the road in such a way that you just get a glimpse of an old church if you’re zipping past on your way to someplace else. The “church winery” was opened in 2002 after owner Gene Sigel dismantled, then reassembled an old Methodist church among his vines. Built in 1892 in Shalersville, Ohio, the church went through many changes over the years. For its new home, Sigel kept the original pews, interior door, flooring and some of the stained glass windows and later added a veranda overlooking the vineyard and beautiful pavilions for more seating.

South River Vineyards calls itself the “quiet winery.” There are no weekly bands or special entertainment, but people are attracted to the peaceful beauty of the property and are welcome to bring their own picnics and snacks while they enjoy South River’s wines and boutique beers. A father and son flying a kite in the fields beyond the picnic pavilions was a happy sight last Sunday.

Warning at South River

Warning at South River

I already mentioned their delicious Concord ice Wine. We also tried the Blush Ice, which Dick said was “sweeter than Thunderbird” and for some odd reason tasted like candied black olives to me – but in a good way, if you can imagine it. We liked the semi-sweet Temptation wine and Mom thought the Riesling was smooth and pleasant with a hint of apricots (this is as close as we’re coming to popular wine-speak). I can’t wait to return with friends for a picnic at this serene oasis so close to my home.

M Cellars

M Cellars

Across the street we popped into the upscale M Cellars, which I believe just opened last year. This lovely winery’s structure reminded us of a place you might find on Cape Cod. There was plenty of room inside with a stone fireplace and comfy couches near the bar and additional seating on two higher levels. The deck out back looks out over the vines and every table was filled on this beautiful summer afternoon.

M Cellars is making a name for itself with more serious, dry wines, but we enjoyed the sweet blush named after the owner’s daughter, Amelia. Their Vidal Blanc ice wine passed Penny’s Kool-Aid wine test, as well.

Back across the street, we made a quick stop at the new Red Eagle Distillery for my patient brother-in-law, Dick. He good-naturedly hauled us around all afternoon (I didn’t have to DD after all), even though he’s not a wine drinker – at all. But bourbon and rye whiskey? Now you’re talking, he said!

Red Eagle’s boutique bourbon is copper pot-distilled and uses multiple mash bills, which include chocolate, caramel malt and locally grown corn. I learned from their website that rye whiskey is the most popular type of whiskey in this part of the U.S. and must contain 51% rye. Red Eagle’s rye comes from its own and a neighboring farm.

Dick samples some whisky at Red Eagle Distillery

Dick samples some whisky at Red Eagle Distillery

In addition, the distillery is one of the few producers of vodka made from grapes! I didn’t know such a thing existed, but it makes sense here in grape-growing country. While Dick enjoyed the whiskies, Penny tried a strawberry lemonade with vodka that more than passed the delicious-sweet-booze test, and capped off a pretty full afternoon.

By this time, my poor mother was waiting in the car, having refused to drag herself up yet one more set of stairs to explore the distillery. We could probably have continued the Wine Wussies tour to Virant’s and Chalet Debonne, but we were all fine with calling it a day by then.

There are so many more wineries out this way, I hope you have a chance to experience some of them yourself. Whether you’re a Wine Wussie or a more discriminating wine drinker, you would be pleasantly surprised, I’m pretty sure.

To find a list of many of the wineries here in Northeastern Ohio, visit the Ohio Wine Producers Association website. Not all wineries are members. I didn’t find the South River Vineyards listed in their “Vine and Wines Trail” brochure. But it’s a good place to start.

Hope you’re having a great summer so far!

 

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Put on your happy festival pants

Posted on June 20, 2014 by katemahar

When I stated last week that I would fill you in on some of the festivals taking place in Ohio this summer, little did I know what I was getting myself – and you – into.

Let me start out by saying that there are so many festivals with so many themes running every single weekend – you would actually have to work really hard at having a BORING WEEKEND. Seriously. Here’s the link:

Ohio Festivals, “Exploring Ohio’s Festivals One Funnel Cake at a Time” (love that!)

Hungry for something other than funnel cakes? There are festivals celebrating . . .

Yeah, I've used this picture before but I still think it's funny.

Yeah, I’ve used this picture before but I still think it’s funny.

Strawberries, blueberries, tomatoes and corn

Potatoes, cheese and various kinds of fish

Chicken, hot dogs, chili and ox roasts

Maple syrup, honey, popcorn and cookies

Kettering, a suburb south of Dayton, is hosting the crowd-pleasing Bacon Fest at the Fraze Pavilion on Sunday, August 17. Music and all things bacon? Yeah, baby.

Then there are the ethnic and heritage festivals . . .

No matter the nationality, it's still mostly about the FOOD.

No matter the nationality, it’s still mostly about the FOOD.

Look for a bevy of Greek, German, Italian and Latino events

Say yes to Czech, Serbian, Macedonian, Romanian and Hungarian

Don’t forget the Swiss, Lebanese, Celtic and Islamic

Or Russian, Scottish, African and Korean

 

There are festivals on rivers, like the Paddle Fest coming up soon in Cincinnati. There are festivals on the shores and islands of Lake Erie, including this weekend’s Pyrate Fest at Put-in-Bay Harbor. Aaaargh! (What does a pirate’s dog say? Aaaaaarf!)

Yellow Springs circa 1969 (hahahahaha!) thanks Yahoo! News

Yellow Springs circa 1969 (hahahahaha!) thanks Yahoo! News

Arts festivals – whether visual arts, dance or music – abound. I love the description of the Cyclops Fest taking place in Yellow Springs on September 13. The hometown of hippie-dippie Antioch College describes this event as an “Epic Festival of homemade goods, music, culture & DIY WONDERFULNESS.” I’m in! (Although the same weekend you may be tempted to go to the Skunk Fest in North Ridgeville, or maybe the Strut Your Mutt Canine Festival in Mansfield.

Man. Tough choices. So many festivals, so little time.

Roy, Dale and Trigger

Roy, Dale and Trigger

Some festivals honor native sons and daughters. A few that sounded fun are Wapakoneta’s Summer Moon festival, recognizing hometown boy Astronaut Neil Armstrong’s walk on the moon. Then there’s the Annie Oakley Festival in Greenville and the Roy Rogers and Dale Evans Festival in Portsmouth. Native Leonard Slye became the beloved TV cowboy and it’s really fun visiting this website (turn on your sound!) to hear Roy and Dale croon, “Happy Trails to You.”

Holy crap! Scary ATL Twins (photo by Terry Richardson). Bet they won't come to Twins Days.

Holy crap! Scary ATL Twins (photo by Terry Richardson). Bet they won’t come to Twins Days.

 

 

 

I’ll wrap up this festival report with a couple near my home in Northeastern Ohio. First, the annual, international Twins Days Festival is always held the first weekend in August in Twinsburg, southeast of Cleveland. This event draws twins and their families from all over the world and is the largest gathering of twins anywhere. There are activities just for registered twins, like a golf outing and Welcome Wiener Roast. But the public is welcome to join in for twin talent shows, the Double Take Parade and more.

And one I think I’ll attend on July 25 or 26 is Cleveland’s Burning River Fest. Sponsored by the Burning River Foundation, proceeds from this festival help fund the future sustainability of our local waterways. Music, food and floating pyres can be found on the land around the Coast Guard Station on Whiskey Island.

1969, Burning Cuyahoga River in Cleveland (photo from Bob of the Ozarks blog - thanks)

1969, Burning Cuyahoga River in Cleveland (photo from Bob of the Ozarks blog – thanks)

Cleveland’s Cuyahoga River actually did catch fire in 1969. I don’t know how it started, but a colorful oil slick covering what had become more industrial waste than water burst into flames and embarrassed everyone who lived here. World news jeered at Cleveland for the eight days – yeah, count ‘em – EIGHT – the river burned.

No sooner had the humiliation of Cleveland’s horrible pollution fiasco died down than new mayor Ralph Perk caught his hair on fire at a ribbon-cutting ceremony at the Cleveland Convention Center. This was actually a few years later, but it felt like yesterday as the media howled at Cleveland’s mayor catching himself on fire while using a welder’s torch to cut a ceremonial ribbon.

Really?

Uh, yeah. Perk was known as the Bad News Mayor (like Bad News Bear, get it?). His term from 1972-75 was a tough time for the city and I’m sure he did his best, but . . .

Did his wife really have to turn down an invitation to dine at the White House because she didn’t want to miss her bowling night?

Whaaaaat?!!!

That’s right. Swear to God. But I digress.

So no complaining about nothing to do in Ohio this summer, folks. And if you live in any other state in the country, I’m willing to bet you have a similar lineup in your own sweet spot of the world. I’d love to hear what’s going on where you live – cool or a little cuckoo. Leave your comments here.

Roy Rogers memorabilia is the focus of the festival. I want this plate!

Roy Rogers memorabilia is the focus of the festival. I want this plate!

And as Roy and Dale would say, happy trails to you until we meet again.

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Traveling with my pups

Posted on June 12, 2014 by katemahar
We're sick of hanging out in the back yard.

We’re sick of hanging out in the back yard.

Everyone knows I’m nuts about my dogs:  Mick Jagger, the rock star long-haired dachshund, and his sidekick Little Richard, the tightly-wound terrier mix. As much as I LOVE to travel, and especially to travel overseas, the pups have me beginning to consider other options. I’m thinking little adventures here in Ohio – where I can take the boys with me.

So I went online this morning to start researching pet-friendly accommodations and was blown away! Did you know there are numerous sites on the internet that give you extensive, and I mean extensive, information about places you can take your dogs?

My favorite was Dog Friendly, which not only lists dog-friendly accommodations in the United States, but around the world!

(Excuse me, but I might get overexcited and go a bit overboard with the exclamation marks on this post. I mean, who knew?!)

And not only does this site tell you where you can stay with your dog, but it lists restaurants, parks, stores, etc. – all kinds of attractions in the area that will allow you to bring Fido with you. The site even gives you the contact information for a local vet or two in case of emergency.

Really. Who knew?!

There are actually tons of hotels that accept dogs. I even saw that a Westin in Columbus, OH, allows dogs (I did not check on specifics – maybe they have to wear diapers or something), so these are not all the kind of super-low budget places where you suspect dogs are the least of their worries about who is checking in. You know those hotels, right? I’m all for a bargain but I draw the line at rooms with scuffed cement block walls and mold creeping up the plastic shower liner. I just kind of assumed (obviously incorrectly) that these places would be the most likely option.

Then I got sidetracked when I saw a link for dog-friendly places in Cleveland. I couldn’t help wondering what might be available close to home. I don’t necessarily have to leave town to have a little adventure with the boys, right?

I learned that one of my favorite shopping centers, Legacy Village in Lyndhurst (a southeastern suburb of the city) is dog friendly. Nice! Legacy Village is one of those developments that became popular, oh, maybe about 10 years ago, that mimics a small town. The stores and restaurants and other businesses all front onto sidewalks and there are trees and a pretty little town square with an outdoor stage. I could build a small house out on the fringe of the “village” and very happily call that home, to be honest. I keep saying I want to live someplace with sidewalks (am currently Lost in Suburbia) where I can walk the dogs and maybe even sit outside when it’s nice and have a cup of coffee. I’m looking. Let me know if you have any ideas for me.

Borrowed from the Legacy Village website.

Borrowed from the Legacy Village website.

Anyway, dogs on leashes are welcome outdoors and in some shops and restaurants. This Saturday afternoon, I could take the boys to wander around then enjoy performers from Mercury Summer Stock Theater singing selections from “Thoroughly Modern Millie” on the Legacy Village stage. The local theater group performs at nearby Notre Dame College.

On Sunday, July 27, the American Cancer Society is hosting its second annual “Bark for Life” fundraiser. This “Canine Celebration” starts with a one mile walk followed by games, activities, food, treats and fun. The first 200 dogs to register will receive a Bark for Life bandanna and goodie bag. The boys would love it! (Contact Alyssa Hancock at Alyssa.Hancock@cancer.org or 888.227.6446 ext 1219 for more info.)

To tell you the truth, before I got the idea of looking for dog-friendly vacation spots, I had never looked at the Legacy Village website, or for that matter, had any idea that there were activities to enjoy there – other than shopping and eating (both of which I already enjoy immensely, anyway). I like this place even more now!

Now, I don’t mean to imply by this post that I will forego the pleasures of my beloved Europe and United Kingdom to wander around with the dogs in Ohio forever after. No way, man. I’m plotting and making preliminary plans for another trip to England this fall.

But whether your vacation is near or far, with or without your furry friends, I do hope you have a wonderful summer. Come back soon and I’ll tell you about some of the festivals we’ll be seeing in Ohio in the months ahead. (I should add – Ohio is a gorgeous place to come in the summer, if you’re looking for someplace new to visit. If you haven’t been here, you’d be most pleasantly surprised!)

 

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Another door opens; a book to recommend, and a fresh start.

Posted on June 6, 2014 by katemahar

You know the saying. When one door closes, another door opens. I’ve been feeling pretty discouraged about another project that isn’t looking promising. Then I picked up this book my cousin gave me for my birthday in April:

Susan Branch coverAt the time Carole gave me A Fine Romance, Falling in Love with the English Countryside by Susan Branch, I glanced through it and thought that while it looked cute, I couldn’t imagine actually READING a book that appeared to be hand-written. I had kind of a “what’s-up-with-that” reaction.

I read a lot. A LOT! So, I had other books at home waiting for my attention as well as more books ordered from the library that hadn’t come in yet.

Then two things happened this week. First, I ran out of reading material. When I have nothing to read, I feel a little bit like I used to feel when I’d find myself smoking the last cigarette in a pack, and discovering that it was actually the last pack in the carton. Panic!  Plus, I was meeting cousins Carole and Karen for dinner last night. What if Carole asked me how I liked the book?! It was time to pick up the book and . . . .

Okay. I’m gobsmacked (isn’t that a fun English word?). Branch fell in love with the English

Every page is a tiny work of art

Every page is a tiny work of art

countryside, and I am falling in love with Branch falling in love. It doesn’t take long to become somewhat used to the quirky appearance of the book. It’s in diary form and hand-written, though I’m guessing it’s really her own personal font that she created and is typed as we type everything. How could all the characters be perfect otherwise? If she really wrote all of that by hand, well, I’m just double gobsmacked, I guess. It would be cool enough just to have her own personal handwriting font, as far as I’m concerned.

Then there are the quotes (her choices are perfect) scattered everywhere, along with photos and her enchanting watercolor illustrations, scrumptious-sounding recipes, and more. It’s a hodgepodge of information and graphics, but . . . it works. It’s adorable. And I’m pretty sure that if I were ever lucky enough to actually meet Susan Branch, that SHE would be adorable.

So what about the new door opening? Well, if anyone’s paying attention out there, you will note that I haven’t written much in the past year. I’ve been distracted not only with my day job (must pay the bills, after all), but also with trying to start a new travel business. Day job is good, but the travel dream isn’t materializing, sad to say. Very sad to say, and thus the feelings of discouragement.

Not to say the dream is completely over, but reading Branch’s book is reminding me of the joy of writing. If you love to write, no matter what else is going on, there is a comfort to putting pen to paper or, in my case, fingers to keyboard, and just speaking to the page. My writing will not be as whimsical and delightfully put together as hers, but that’s okay. She is truly gifted and I admire that talent. Good for you, Susan! You rock!

No, my writing is of a different sort. We can’t all be Susan Branch or my hero, Rick Steves, or Paul Theroux or Bill Bryson or any of the other remarkable writers who reflect so brilliantly on their travels.  But for that matter, Bill Bryson can’t be Susan Branch, either (insert light bulb over head).

So my writing about travel and life will be from Kate Mahar’s point of view and in Kate Mahar’s style. I’m not likely to become rich and famous in the process, but you know what? It makes me happy. And I am grateful for whatever level of talent I can claim as my own.

Thank you for reading my blog. And if you are looking for a truly delightful read about England’s  picturesque gardens and castles and warm tributes to Beatrix Potter and afternoon tea with scones and jam and clotted cream (oh, yum – count me in!), then do pick up this beautiful book. And visit www.susanbranch.com to learn more about this lovely, talented lady and her works.

Thank you, Susan Branch, for inspiring me. And a special thank you to my dear cousin, Carole Berthold, for this sweet birthday gift. My birthday has come and gone, but this week was exactly the time when I needed this gift.

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